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By Owen Lipsett
Although only a small channel separates it from the mainland, Trogir’s architecture and ambience more closely resemble those of Croatia’s offshore islands than the mainland.
Redolent with Venetian influence and almost entirely pedestrianized, its Old Town is perfectly self-contained on a small island connected to the mainland by one bridge and the much larger (and less interesting) island of Čiovo by another.
Conveniently, both the bus station from which the half-hourly #37 (taking 30-45 minutes) runs to Split and the town’s market flank the mainland side of the bridge. Once YOU cross it, however, you're quite literally stepping back in time…
Sedate, quiet, and understated, Trogir is a perfect counterpoint to Split. Indeed, it’s amazing that only Kaštela, the collective name given the former rural fortresses of local nobility (and the towns that have superseded them) divides the two. While Venetian rule left a relatively small imprint on Split, you could be forgiven for thinking you’re in 16th-century Italy rather than 21st-century Croatia navigating Trogir’s almost exclusively pedestrianized streets. Despite its small size Trogir boasts quite a few places to stay and it’s quite common for visitors to base themselves here in order to visit Split on day-trips.
Trogir’s timelessness comes from its layout, essentially unchanged since its foundation by Greek settlers from Vis in the 3rd century BC, and the near-perfect state of its historic buildings has led to its inscription UNESCO World Heritage sight. Although it takes barely ten minutes to cross on foot, it’s easy to get pleasantly lost in its narrow lanes, whose combination of preservation and almost manicured decay seems somehow fitting. Standing still in time, it demands you do the same, and it’s quite easy to do so in any of the cafes that crowd its Riva or the fine restaurants in its heart.
If you’re in a hurry, there are several buildings you shouldn’t miss. The most famous is the Cathedral, which dominates the main square. Its renown owes to its West Portal, intricately carved with allegorical scenes by the Slav mastermason Radovan in 1240. Directly opposite the Portal is the Čipiko Palace, the prettiest of the town’s noble residences and the former seat of one of the most powerful families in provincial Dalmatia. The beautiful 15th-century Town Loggia and its clock tower are on the south side of the square. After you’ve emerged, walk west along the riva to the delightful octagonal Kamarlengo Fortress, where the eponymous Venetian official spent his year’s term.
© Owen Lipsett 2005 All Rights Reserved
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